kneedragger26
10-15-2006, 12:44 PM
Now I know that a lot of us do not have money fallin out of our rear ends(maybe some do.....????), but I do like to share what little knowledge I have when it comes to motorcycles.
Since I do not have a rear stand and all of my (good tools) stay at work, I will share how I do a rear tire on a Honda CBR.
The technology has not changed much in many years so it is not complicated or requires a genius mind with years of mechanical experience.
First you need:
A 3/8ths drive 12mm socket and 3/8ths ratchet, or a 12MM BOX end wrench.
A 6mm allen wrench or socket with a little bit of leverage. A t-handle is not enough to break it loose.
A 1/2" drive torque wrench that goes to 100 ft-lbs.
A 1/2" drive 32 mm socket and a 1/2" drive breaker bar or ratchet.
Anything small and plastic to tap on the axle bolt enough to grab it from the other side.
I use blocks to get the bike up. First while its on its kickstand, I build a stable wood support for the right side(usually 2 4x4's and a 2x4). Use your imagination... Then I take a small floor jack and jack up the left side until the bike is up off the ground and stable. The tire only needs to be an inch off the ground. If you got a swingarm stand then this is the time to use it! Check to make sure everything is straight and doesnt wiggle. DONE!
Now the first thing you want to check is the chain adjustment. If its OK, then just leave the adjusters alone. THEY DO NOT NEED TO BE LOOSENED!
Remove the M6 12mm bolt out of the brake caliper.(It has rubber on both sides and slides). If you notice that it does not come out easy after breaking loose, it is because there is "threadlocker" on the threads. This is to keep it from vibrating out. Then remove the 6mm bolt on the front of the caliper. Notice that the threads are up towards the head. This makes removal of the caliper easier. Pull directly up on the caliper and dont panic when you see the pads swing down. They are not going anywhere. You should also see the front vibration clip still sitting in place on the caliper bracket. Its not going anywhere either. Lay the caliper off to the side on the swingarm
Now take the nut off using the 32mm socket and ratchet. (Might have to give it a whack to break it loose). Once the nut is removed, wiggle the tire around a little and you will see that a square bracket will want to come off. This is a stablizer bracket for the chain adjustment and keeps the axle from moving on the swingarm. Note the direction it came off. It goes back on the same exact way.
Now the tire should be loose. Tap the axle bolt with something soft and it should start to come out on the other side. Lift the tire slightly and it should slide right out. Note the other square bracket and its position. (It is opposite of the other side, or inside out to accomodate the axle bolt head) It also goes back in the same way.
Now push the tire slightly forward and remove the chain. Notice that the caliper bracket on the other side should stay in place. It just slides into the swingarm slot, so if it falls out, its no big deal. Just put it back in.
Now you have a tire with wheel, spocket, and bearings with bearing caps. Dont lose the caps on the ends. They will fall out.
You can also lay the tire down, sprocket side up, and pulling up gently will see the isolater bushings between the wheel and the spocket. If they look OK then that all there is to it. just put it back together by pushing down after lining it up.
After doing what you have to do, then reverse procedure. I like to clean the bearing caps off, and put a finger full of grease on the inside, then popping them back in place. One thing to remember. If it doesnt want to go, then look why it doesnt want to go! Dont force anything.
Line up the rear tire and dont forget about putting the chain back on. It should almost be lined up if you slide it in straight and carefully. Crouch down behind the bike and lifting up on the tire, slide the axle bolt in with the adjuster bracket by hand. With a little patience and love it will slide right though with little or no effort. Tap the axle bolt until it seats INSIDE the adjuster bracket. Then put the other side in and the washer and nut on.
What you want now is to see that the adjusters are completely forward on the adjusting bolts for the chain. ARE THEY???? OK. Now torque the nut to 90-93 ft/lbs. Done.
When puttin the brake caliper back on the rear bolt (M6 12mm) should have loc-tite put on it and torqued to 17-20 ft/lbs. Same with the front 6mm allen bolt but not required. Putting the caliper on is easy. Also I suggest Threadlocker blue. Nothing more. Something is wrong if the bolt holes do not line up. Never force anything.
Check chain and spin the tire. Hey, not a bad time to lube the chain either huh?
Once you let it down of the stand or blocks, you would think its a good time for a "reward" rip-around for doing such a great job..:naughty:
Check rear brake function before building any type of speed when you first take off.
:moped:
Since I do not have a rear stand and all of my (good tools) stay at work, I will share how I do a rear tire on a Honda CBR.
The technology has not changed much in many years so it is not complicated or requires a genius mind with years of mechanical experience.
First you need:
A 3/8ths drive 12mm socket and 3/8ths ratchet, or a 12MM BOX end wrench.
A 6mm allen wrench or socket with a little bit of leverage. A t-handle is not enough to break it loose.
A 1/2" drive torque wrench that goes to 100 ft-lbs.
A 1/2" drive 32 mm socket and a 1/2" drive breaker bar or ratchet.
Anything small and plastic to tap on the axle bolt enough to grab it from the other side.
I use blocks to get the bike up. First while its on its kickstand, I build a stable wood support for the right side(usually 2 4x4's and a 2x4). Use your imagination... Then I take a small floor jack and jack up the left side until the bike is up off the ground and stable. The tire only needs to be an inch off the ground. If you got a swingarm stand then this is the time to use it! Check to make sure everything is straight and doesnt wiggle. DONE!
Now the first thing you want to check is the chain adjustment. If its OK, then just leave the adjusters alone. THEY DO NOT NEED TO BE LOOSENED!
Remove the M6 12mm bolt out of the brake caliper.(It has rubber on both sides and slides). If you notice that it does not come out easy after breaking loose, it is because there is "threadlocker" on the threads. This is to keep it from vibrating out. Then remove the 6mm bolt on the front of the caliper. Notice that the threads are up towards the head. This makes removal of the caliper easier. Pull directly up on the caliper and dont panic when you see the pads swing down. They are not going anywhere. You should also see the front vibration clip still sitting in place on the caliper bracket. Its not going anywhere either. Lay the caliper off to the side on the swingarm
Now take the nut off using the 32mm socket and ratchet. (Might have to give it a whack to break it loose). Once the nut is removed, wiggle the tire around a little and you will see that a square bracket will want to come off. This is a stablizer bracket for the chain adjustment and keeps the axle from moving on the swingarm. Note the direction it came off. It goes back on the same exact way.
Now the tire should be loose. Tap the axle bolt with something soft and it should start to come out on the other side. Lift the tire slightly and it should slide right out. Note the other square bracket and its position. (It is opposite of the other side, or inside out to accomodate the axle bolt head) It also goes back in the same way.
Now push the tire slightly forward and remove the chain. Notice that the caliper bracket on the other side should stay in place. It just slides into the swingarm slot, so if it falls out, its no big deal. Just put it back in.
Now you have a tire with wheel, spocket, and bearings with bearing caps. Dont lose the caps on the ends. They will fall out.
You can also lay the tire down, sprocket side up, and pulling up gently will see the isolater bushings between the wheel and the spocket. If they look OK then that all there is to it. just put it back together by pushing down after lining it up.
After doing what you have to do, then reverse procedure. I like to clean the bearing caps off, and put a finger full of grease on the inside, then popping them back in place. One thing to remember. If it doesnt want to go, then look why it doesnt want to go! Dont force anything.
Line up the rear tire and dont forget about putting the chain back on. It should almost be lined up if you slide it in straight and carefully. Crouch down behind the bike and lifting up on the tire, slide the axle bolt in with the adjuster bracket by hand. With a little patience and love it will slide right though with little or no effort. Tap the axle bolt until it seats INSIDE the adjuster bracket. Then put the other side in and the washer and nut on.
What you want now is to see that the adjusters are completely forward on the adjusting bolts for the chain. ARE THEY???? OK. Now torque the nut to 90-93 ft/lbs. Done.
When puttin the brake caliper back on the rear bolt (M6 12mm) should have loc-tite put on it and torqued to 17-20 ft/lbs. Same with the front 6mm allen bolt but not required. Putting the caliper on is easy. Also I suggest Threadlocker blue. Nothing more. Something is wrong if the bolt holes do not line up. Never force anything.
Check chain and spin the tire. Hey, not a bad time to lube the chain either huh?
Once you let it down of the stand or blocks, you would think its a good time for a "reward" rip-around for doing such a great job..:naughty:
Check rear brake function before building any type of speed when you first take off.
:moped: